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Is the White Horse in the saddle to return to the true epicurean gallop?

If there is one address that we have heard favorably about for many years, this is it! Ah, New Year’s Eve in the 70s/80s, the grandparents’ golden wedding meal or the cousins’ first communion! So many gourmet memories within these walls: here we are back at the Cheval Blanc hotel restaurant!

CHARNY-OREE-DE-PUISAYE : In the 1960s, it was even briefly mentioned in Michelin. At a time when the guide still mischievously enjoyed walking through our fields. An altitude of 139 meters is mentioned for CHARNY, whose population has changed little since then, around 1,400 inhabitants. It is good to walk around this small still commercial town. Even if the excellent charcutier-rôtisseur has unfortunately been closed for a long time. In addition, the town is animated every Sunday by a very nice market.

First of all, let us thank these establishments that offer an authentic cuisine menu every day at 14 euros. For example, on that day, a menu that includes cherry tomato and Emmentaler clafoutis, then a chicken crêpinette with mushroom sauce and basmati rice, finally ending with fromage blanc with homemade jams. Many workers take advantage of this pretty rustic room, with its towering beams and fireplace insert that develops a soft warmth.

But where did the little snack of yesteryear go?

Pauline is our smiling waitress that afternoon. As she asks us to choose the wine, she bluntly tells us that she prefers rosé nectar! The one that inevitably makes you think of summer.

Then we chose the Ouanne menu, near a river, at 36 euros, attracted by some of these denominations. We can only regret that at this price we are not served a small appetizer: a gougère, a foie gras toast or a ladle of pumpkin cream. What else do I know! At the price of the menu, as it is offered, this seems abnormal to us…

The scallops are here with leek confit and vanilla beurre blanc. The kitchen is perfect. The sauce is good. As for the pairing of seafood with leek, it is usually successful. My table companion’s snail casserole is much appreciated, especially its tasty garlic cream.

The workers’ menu: a delight for public works employees!

Then, loving the duck, I choose an irancy candied leg. She is accompanied by her pressed potatoes with smoked bacon. If the poultry fondant and sauce are good, the pressed potatoes are well done. Its black color attests to this and makes it difficult to cut. Pity ! Because, once the crust is removed, the dish is good. As for the diner’s beef tenderloin, it is served rosé upon request.

Then there is a delicious white herbed cheese to follow! The surrounding tables mainly choose the worker’s menu and the banquet. We recognize the guys on the construction site by their lined jacket, in reflective yellow! With her back to the fireplace, a little granny calmly drinks her beer.

Please, the perfect ice cream to serve with your bald tear!

For dessert, the frozen calvados parfait is too cold. This makes it difficult to cut. It’s good. Although we thought that a small drop of “Calva” in this dessert would not have done any harm, enhancing it a little, without exhausting the budget of the establishment, of course!

Thanks to these types of establishments for giving life to our cities and towns, to the delight of an often very loyal clientele. See you next week, in another place still sitting!

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The +: spotless toilets with changing table (good idea!). Very nice room.

The -: it seemed to us that the menu of 36 euros (a nice sum) did not keep all its promises that day. A day without maybe, it happens. And please, give us salt and pepper shakers, instead of these envelopes, worthy of the bar of TGV wagon 4!

Contact :

Hotel restaurant Le Cheval Blanc

Bridge Street 04

89120 Charny-Oree-de-Puisaye

Telephone: 03. 86. 63. 60. 66.

Site: www.chevalblanc-charny.com

Gauthier PAJONA

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